I have always been a firm believer in the Fake Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept since it was first presented to the public in 2013. It is the perfect evolution of a classic and every time the Le Brassus manufacturer launches a new one version, I’m excited. The Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon (which has the distinction of being the first watch I wrote about during my first SIHH) paved the way for an entire and unprecedented collection, a collection made up of watches of the highest level, cutting-edge and animated by movements that represent the state of the art of modern watchmaking.
Maximum efficiency is achieved when the watch is fully charged and working within a very specific power reserve window; as soon as the power reserve level approaches a single day, a patented system comes into operation and prevents the barrel from winding down quickly, so as to release energy more gently and consequently guarantee constant precision. The power reserve is visible in the indicator at 12 o’clock (when the hand is in the “medium” position it means that 7 days of power have already passed since you fully recharged the watch).
Looking at the caliber from above and through the dial, you will immediately notice the elaborate design and a combination of materials and surface treatments even more complex than the design itself. One of the materials used is anodized aluminium, chosen to make the main bridge; this part is treated to avoid contact between the chronograph components and the forged carbon parts. The chronograph bridges are made of a silver and nickel alloy subsequently treated with PVD. Crowns and chrono pushers are, as in many if not all Offshore models, made of ceramic. Speaking of ceramics, Audemars Piguet creates ceramics with a different aesthetic result compared to others; in the last two years I have had more than one opportunity to study the most recent Royal Oak and the aesthetic and technical performance of its ceramic parts is superior to that of the competition.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Chronograph adopts a linear minute counter; it means that every time the central seconds hand starts, the counter, calibrated up to a maximum of 30 minutes (the display is through an alternation of black and white apertures), jumps almost instantly from one minute to the next (it takes half a second but I’m sure that at Audemars Piguet they are working to further lower this time). Looking at the watch from left to right, we start from the bridge and Tourbillon arm made of black PVD-treated steel and then end with the linear chrono minute counter. Rotating the watch on the case back, you notice the exceptional finish of the case and movement with the central bridge also made of anodized aluminium.
The crown activates the H-N-R indicator positioned at 6 o’clock; ‘H’ means that you can adjust the watch, ‘R’ indicates that by turning the crown you can wind the movement, while ‘N’ indicates that the crown is in the closed position and that the watch is running regularly.
Let’s now talk about the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Chronograph on the wrist: it is very personal and sporty (have you noticed that there is no bracelet version of a Concept?). Considering that I am not a fan of gold watches, it is strange to hear myself say that I prefer the rose gold version to the titanium one: both have a case with a granular finish with a three-dimensional geometry that almost seems to “extrude” from the base and then attach itself to the unmistakable flat and octagonal bezel.
I find its dial to be a little too crowded overall, so I would definitely go for the rose gold version. Comparing it to the titanium version (which has a rather dark dial and a more technological look), I think this combination adds that warmth and class that the titanium version lacks. Since the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Chronograph is the fourth Royal Oak Concept in the last two years, I hope that Audemars Piguet decides to create a more accessible version sooner or later; it is a collection that does not confuse or cannibalize the classic Royal Oak and will certainly appeal to those enthusiasts who do not like the classic Royal Oak at all and have often looked for something more modern and different in that watch.